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Hardware & Supplies

Cable

The high current connections in a DC EV need to be made with 2/0 cable. However, not all 2/0 cable is created equal. Some of it will have dozens of strands of copper, each about as thick as a mechanical pencil lead. This is suitable for stationary wiring in a building, but hard to work with in a vehicle, because it is too stiff.

The cable we carry is a welding cable with several thousand copper strands the thickness of hairs. Both types of cable have the same amount of copper in them, but the fine strand version is very flexible for bending into tight places. It also has a durable insulation protecting it.

AC conversions draw less current, so they can be wired with lighter cable. For long runs, use #2 cable. For battery interconnects, use #4 cable. This is the same quality and type of cable as the 2/0 in a smaller size.

Cable
Thinner Strands Provide
More Flexibility

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Cable Grommets

Any time you pass cable or wires through a hole in sheet metal, you should protect the wires with a grommet. These grommets fit closely around the 2/0 cable, eliminating movement and providing a weatherproof opening.

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Lugs & Cable Ends

These plated copper lugs will make the connection between your cable and your batteries (if you are using "L" style posts) or components. They come with either 5/16" or 3/8" holes, in sizes to fit 2/0, #2, and #4 sizes of cable.

For standard automotive or universal battery posts, we also carry round automotive style clamp ends sized for 2/0, #2, and #4 cable.

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Anderson Connectors

There are some places in an EV where you need a secure connection that can also be easily separated. One such example is on the wiring to an onboard charger. Hardwiring the charger into the car is awkward, and makes it difficult to remove for repairs or modifications.

The solution is the Anderson connector. This is a heavy-duty plastic case that snaps two connections together securely, and separates easily. The case is indexed so that it cannot be snapped together with mismatched polarity. These connectors are an industry standard.

Anderson connector

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Belleville Washers

Snug battery connections are essential. Loose connections will lead to resistance, heat, and damaged or melted terminals, even fire. However, since lead is so soft it is difficult to maintain a snug connection without simply deforming the lead. Split ring washers exert too much pressure for this application, and the pressure is unevenly distributed.

Belleville washers are precision constant pressure devices. They have a slightly concave shape which flattens when tightened into place. With proper use of these washers, loose connections are avoided, and battery maintenance is reduced.

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Heatshrink Tube

All connections between cables and lugs should be weatherproofed and insulated. Sometimes it is also useful to be able to insulate other, smaller connections and terminals as well. This tubing, slipped over the connection, can be quickly shrunk to a tight fit with a heat gun or hand-held propane torch. It comes in 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" diameters, which indicate the finished diameter after shrinking.

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Flexguard

Wires gather into proper looms not only look better, they are also better protected from snagging or abrasion. This enhances the vehicle's reliability. Flexguard provides an easy-to-use loom sheath. It is a corrugated flexible tube with a slit down the length. Wires can be slipped into in, and individual wires can be routed out again at any point along the length. It is easy to add or remove wires at any time, or to work on wiring at any point on the loom. It can be tie-wrapped to the chassis at intervals. Flexguard caps snap around the ends to finish the loom.

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Noalox

Corrosion is the enemy of an EV. Noalox anti-corrosion compound protects connections. If a lug is half-filled with Noalox before being crimped to the cable, then the connection is covered with heatshrink tube, that connection will remain corrosion-free for years, Noalox is also handy to coat on battery terminals before bolting on lugs.

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Heatsink Grease

Curtis/PMC controllers heatsink through their bases, and are intended to be mounted on a flat piece of aluminum for this purpose. A layer of heatsink grease between the controller and the plate is essential for good contact and thermal transfer.

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Returns accepted for warranty issues ONLY, for replacement. No cash refunds.
For ordering and warranty information, see the Order Info page.

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